One of the last five covered markets in Paris, saved from demolition by its neighbours and reborn as a place for sport, contemporary art and city life.
A place almost lost to real estate
Before becoming the modern covered hall you can visit today — grey-green iron, large windows, light pouring in — the Carreau du Temple was nearly demolished to make way for offices and luxury apartments. The plans were drawn, the permits almost signed.
A long fight by neighbourhood residents reversed the decision. A 60-million-euro renovation followed (2009–2014), and the building reopened to the public in spring 2014. One of the last five covered market halls of Paris was saved.
A gymnasium for everyone
Most Parisian gymnasiums — the ones inside schools — actually look like miniature versions of the Carreau du Temple, with their high transparent ceilings letting mind and body free up. Which is why the Carreau now hosts judo, basketball, zumba, yoga and a long list of other disciplines, for an annual subscription of around 200€.
Arts get their share too: contemporary art fairs (Urban Art Fair, Drawing Now, AKAA), dance performances, cinema projections and artist residencies all happen here.
The neighbourhood around it
Don't miss the Marché des Enfants Rouges — Paris's oldest covered market, a few streets away, packed with food stalls. The arbored Square du Temple in front of the 3rd arrondissement town hall is a calm spot to read. The Musée des Arts et Métiers a few minutes north exhibits France's craziest inventions.
We recommend the 'Lower Marais' (around Carreau du Temple) over the busier 'Upper Marais' — slightly more authentic, slightly less touristy, more local handcraft and gourmet food.
Fun facts
Archeological digs in 2011 — five metres deep, right in the middle of the construction site — uncovered remains of an 18th-century rotunda that once housed small boutiques, and of the 16th-century house of the religious Prior who oversaw the area.
The streets nearby are named after French regions — Bretagne, Picardie, Normandie — a tribute to Henri IV's plan to have eight streets, each bearing a province's name, converging on a single place.
In the middle of what is now Carreau du Temple, a tower once stood where Louis XVI and his family were imprisoned at the Revolution before being beheaded. Napoleon I had it destroyed to prevent any royalist commemoration.
Where to stay
From Chess Studio, the Carreau du Temple is a 15-minute walk through some of the most authentic streets of central Paris. Le Marais is right next door. Métro Bonne Nouvelle (line 8/9) puts you there in 8 minutes if walking is not an option.